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Salu (cloth)

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Salu (variously transcribed in English as sālū, saloo, and archaically, shallee, shalloo, shella, and sallo)[a] is a type of twill cloth, woven from cotton and dyed red, originally made in India. Prior to the introduction of modern industrial techniques, it was produced exclusively hand spun (khaddar) yarns with locally-available dyes.[2] Salu is one of seven cotton cloths explicitly mentioned in the 16th century Mughal record Ain-i-Akbari, together with khasa, tansukh, doriya, bafta, dupatta, and panchtoliya.[3][4]

History & description

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Salu appears to be an ancient fabric; trade references to the Persian market from Hindustan in the 14th century are documented in the Divan-i-Albisa by Mawlānā Mahmud Nizan Qari.[b] According to a 16th-century Mughal Empire record (Ain-i -Akbari), Salu cost two mohur per piece at that time.[1]

The original salu was made in India from materials sourced entirely in India, but a dyeing process introduced by refugees from the French Revolution using English-made cloth called mārkīn ("American") later became common India. [1]: 819  Accordingly, salu has also been described as a red-colored mārkīn cloth by certain sources.[7][1]

Salu is distinguished by its red color, which is achieved through the use of Indian madder (rubia cordiofolia) in a red shade. [1][8][9][10] Turkey red is one of the alizarin colours that can be extracted from Indian madder.[11][12] Baden Henry Powell mentioned salu as a madder-dyed cloth in his book Hand-book of the economic products of the Punjab, with a combined index and glossary of technical vernacular words.[13]

Variations

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  • Kharua was another red cloth that was coarser in texture than salu.[14]: 3 : 139 
  • Mahyu-salu was a type from Mau, Uttar Pradesh.[15]

Use

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Salu is used as a foundation cloth for embroidery alongside variants such as markin, which is slightly coarser than salu.[16]: 96  Salu is also used in kantha, which is an embroidery craft in Indian subcontinent.[17] Embroidered with silk threads, it is a popular type in Punjabi weddings.[2] The famous red salu was used for ladies' dresses, borders of ladies coats, turbans, and curtains.[14]: 68  It is also known as Saloo[18] in Punjab and is also used as a veil or wrapper.[16]: 108 

Other cultures

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See also

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Notes

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  1. ^ Some early English-language variants possibly arose from confusion with shalloon.[1]: 818–19 
  2. ^ Divan-i-Albisa[5]: 17  cited as Diwan-i-Albisa by Nizan al Din Mahmoud Kari in Encyclopaedia of Untouchables Ancient, Medieval and Modern[6]

References

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  1. ^ a b c d e Yule, Henry; Burnell.A.C. (1903). Hobson Jobson. Osmania University, Digital Library Of India. John Murray.
  2. ^ a b Jain, Simmi (2003). Encyclopaedia of Indian Women Through the Ages: The middle ages. Gyan Publishing House. p. 197. ISBN 978-81-7835-173-5.
  3. ^ Sangar, S. P. (1965). "FEMALE COSTUMES IN THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES (as reflected in the contemporary Hindi literature)". Proceedings of the Indian History Congress. 27: 243–247. ISSN 2249-1937. JSTOR 44140630.
  4. ^ Panjab University Research Bulletin: Arts. The University. 1982. p. 90.
  5. ^ Mahmud Nizan Qari. Diwan-i-Albisa (in Persian). Constantinople H, 1303 manuscript
  6. ^ Kumar, Raj (2008). Encyclopaedia of Untouchables Ancient, Medieval and Modern. Gyan Publishing House. p. 227. ISBN 978-81-7835-664-8.
  7. ^ Hadi, Saiyid Muhammad (1899). A Monograph on Dyes and Dyeing in the North-Western Provinces and Oudh. North-Western Provinces and Oudh Government Press. p. 34.
  8. ^ Watt, Sir George (1987). Indian Art at Delhi 1903: Being the Official Catalogue of the Delhi Exhibition 1902–1903. Motilal Banarsidass Publ. p. 528. ISBN 978-81-208-0278-0.
  9. ^ Kausar, Zinat (1992). Muslim Women in Medieval India. Janaki Prakashan. p. 65. ISBN 978-81-85078-74-8.
  10. ^ Chaturvedi, Archna (2003). Encyclopaedia of Muslim Women: Muslim women and society. Commonwealth. p. 160. ISBN 978-81-7169-785-4.
  11. ^ Vankar, Padma S.; Shanker, Rakhi; Mahanta, Debajit; Tiwari, S.C. (1 January 2008). "Ecofriendly sonicator dyeing of cotton with Rubia cordifolia Linn. using biomordant". Dyes and Pigments. 76 (1): 207–212. doi:10.1016/j.dyepig.2006.08.023. ISSN 0143-7208.
  12. ^ The New International Encyclopædia. Dodd, Mead. 1911. p. 571.
  13. ^ Baden-Powell, Baden Henry (1872). Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab: With a Combined Index and Glossary of Technical Vernacular Words. Printed at the Thomason Civil Engineering College Press. p. 8.
  14. ^ a b Department), L. Liotard (Of the Agricultural (1881). Memorandum on Dyes of Indian Growth and Production. Home, Revenue and Agricultural Department Press.
  15. ^ Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011). The Complete Costume Dictionary. Scarecrow Press. p. 182. ISBN 978-0-8108-4004-1.
  16. ^ a b Naik, Shailaja D. (1996). Traditional Embroideries of India. APH Publishing. ISBN 978-81-7024-731-9.
  17. ^ Talukder, Shahariar (2001). Folk Art of Bangladesh Through Ethno-archaeological Perspective. Bangla Academy. p. 187.
  18. ^ Basu, Trailokya Nath (1964). Tant-o-rang: A Book of Textile Technology. p. 105.
  19. ^ African Arts. African Studies Center, University of California, Los Angeles. 1978. p. 57.
  20. ^ Delhi, All India Radio (AIR), New (7 November 1982). AKASHVANI: Vol. XLVII. No. 45 ( 7 NOVEMBER, 1982 ). All India Radio (AIR),New Delhi. p. 16.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
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