Palma de Mallorca
Palma de Mallorca is the chief city of the island of Mallorca, and the capital of the entire Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean. With a population of 423,000 in 2022, it's home to half the people of Mallorca, and in summer feels like it contains half the people of Europe. A swathe of boxy hotels stretches out for 20 km on either side, and its airport is the entry point for all the resorts on the island. Yet for all the modern mediocrity, Palma retains a fine Old Town, with the highlights its cathedral and royal palace.
Palma is also the admin centre for the uninhabited Cabrera islands 20 km south of Mallorca. They're a national park; boat trips visit but they're not described here.
Understand
[edit]
This island has been settled since 2500 BC, and the city of Palma was founded by the Romans in 123 BC. They used it as their port for trade with mainland Spain and North Africa, while Pollentia was their port for Rome, Greece and the east Med. Their rule lasted almost eight centuries but as their power waned, Mallorca was attacked by Vandals and by the Arabs of North Africa. In 902 AD it fell to the Emirate of Cordoba. In 1229 it was conquered by King Jaime I, ruler of Valencia and Aragon, who made Palma the seat of his Kingdom of Majorca. In the 16th century it was ravaged by attacks from Turkish and Berber pirates and through plague. An era of stability began from 1716 when the Bourbon royal dynasty came to power, and the city was boosted by trade with the Caribbean.
Mallorca has sometimes been a place of refuge, for instance from Napoleonic forces in the early 19th century. At the onset of the Spanish Civil War in 1936 it was held by the Nationalists; the Republicans landed in strength and fought their way 12 km inland, but Nationalist air power drove them out within a month.
Tourism had begun in the 1880s, but only blossomed from the 1950s as the Balearics came within range of flights from north Europe, and a rash of hotels spread along the coast. In spite of these, the city retains much of its ancient splendour, centred on its cathedral and palace. Palma is an all-year destination but the holiday peak is May through September. The sea breeze keeps the temperature in check, seldom much above 25 °C, and you might need a jacket in the evening.
Get in
[edit]
By plane
[edit]1 Palma de Mallorca Airport (PMI IATA) (9 km southeast of Palma), ☏ +34 913 21 10 00. A large busy airport, with daily flights from many European cities, the UK, North Africa and within Spain. Opened in 1960, it shares its two runways with Son Sant Joan air force base. For practical purposes it operates as a single terminal, then after check-in and security your departure is from one of four "modules". Typically Module A is non-Schengen, B is small planes to Ibiza and Menorca, and C is Schengen, but check the screen. The airport has the usual facilities including car hire. 
Onward transport: EMT buses are blue, white and green and run year-round. Bus A1 runs to city centre (Porta des Camp, Sindicat Interchange, Railway Station, Alemanya Interchange and Passeig Mallorca) every 15 minutes from 06:15 to midnight then at 01:00, 02:00 and 03:00. Bus A2 runs southeast to S'Arenal hourly from 06:15 to 22:15. In 2024 the single adult fare for either is €5. You can pay on board; buying from the machine in the terminal costs the same but is also valid for one transfer. Bus 34 runs hourly from the airport to the north suburbs and Son Espases, but you're unlikely to use it.
TIB buses are red and yellow, and run April-Oct to other towns:
- A11 goes west to Portals Nous, Costa d'en Blanes, Son Caliu, Palmanova, Magaluf, Santa Ponça, Galatzó, Peguera and Camp de Mar.
- A32 goes northeast to Inca, Sa Pobla, Alcúdia, Platja de Muro and Can Picafort.
- A42 goes east to Algaida, Montuïri, Vilafranca, Manacor, Portocristo, S'Illot, Sa Coma, Cala Millor and Cala Bona.
- A51 goes southeast to S'Arenal, Llucmajor and Campos.
A taxi ride to city centre costs €28 daytime, €34 midnight to 05:00, and takes 15 minutes in normal traffic. See Welcome Pick-ups for rates to other towns - these are usually the best option for families or groups.
By boat
[edit]Ferries sail to Palma from Barcelona (7 hr), Denia (5 hr) and Valencia (7 hr). Inter-island ferries sail to Palma from Ibiza (2-4 hr), Formentara (4 hr) and Mahon on Menorca (6 hr).
Ferry lines are Trasmed, Baleària and GNV. There are no ferries to Mallorca from France, Italy or North Africa.
Cruise liners often call at Palma as they tour the Med.
2 Palma de Mallorca ferry port is 2 km southwest of town centre.
By road
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All roads and routes converge on Palma from around the island. About the furthest point you could come from, Cala Ratjada on the east coast, is 83 km and takes 70 min. TIB buses run the out-of-town routes and EMT within Palma.
There are no road links from the other Balearic islands, nor plans to build any.
By train
[edit]3 Estacio Intermodal is the main train, bus and metro station, underground at Plaça d'Espanya. Metre-gauge trains run to Inca, Sa Pobla and Manacor, see TIB for timetables and fares.
Ferrocarril de Soller is the quaint wooden electric train (914 m gauge) to Sóller - these depart from across the street at C d'Eusebi Estada. See Tren de Sóller for timetables and fares. At Sóller a tram continues to the coast.
Get around
[edit]Buses within Palma city and its beach strip are run by EMT and are frequent. Bus CC orbits city centre M-F every 40 min and is free. Standard fares in 2024 are €2 within the city, €3 to the sea port and €5 to the airport, pay on board, no transfers permitted. A prepaid card for ten trips within the city is €15.
Trains to Inca and the Metro to Son Sardina and UIB make several stops in the north suburbs, but these are residential and industrial areas of no interest to most visitors.
The inner streets are too narrow and crowded for comfortable cycling, but bike is a good option further out along the beach. There are eight bike rental shops in city centre and half-a-dozen more down the eastern strip beyond the airport.
Taxis wait at the port, airport and bus & railway station.
See
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- A total solar eclipse on Wednesday 12 Aug 2026, starting at 20:31 and lasting 90 seconds. The chances of a clear sky are 65%, and you need a clear view to the northwest horizon, as the sun will be setting over the sea.
City centre
[edit]- El Casco Antiguo is the historical centre, encompassing most city sights such as the cathedral and Royal Palace. It's a pleasant area to stroll, with narrow shady streets and glimpses of private courtyards. It's bounded by city walls (Dalt Murada) with an inner elevated plaza, while the ring-road outside zig-zags past the Vauban fortifications.
- 1 Palma Cathedral (La Seu), Plaça de la Seu, ☏ +34 971 713133, info@catedraldemallorca.org. M-Sa 10:00-17:00. Huge ornate cathedral, impressive outside and within. It was started in 1229 but only completed in 1601, in mostly Gothic style; Gaudí had a go at improving it but quit in a strop. The Royal Chapel is the resting place of kings Jaime II and III. You can ascend the tower for an extra €15, but it's a lot of steps. The standard ticket includes Museo de Arte Sacro (aka Museu Diocesà), with religious paintings and silverware; this has a separate entrance east. Adult €10.
- Ses Voltes is the plaza south side of the cathedral. It has views over Parc de la Mar and sometimes hosts events.
- Royal Palace of La Almudaina (west side of cathedral). Tu-Su 10:00-18:00. The fortress dates back to Roman times but what you see now is a rebuild from 1309. The ground floor is medieval while the upper floor, added in the 16th century, has the grand state rooms and suites. It was a seat of the kings of Mallorca and is still used as a residence by the Spanish royal family. Adult €7.
- S'Hort del Rei are Moorish gardens just west of the palace.
- Banys Àrabs, C de Can Serra 3 (200 m east of cathedral), ☏ +34 637 046534. Daily 10:00-17:30. Sauna baths built in the tenth century, with under-floor heating; it's the only building in Palma dating to the Arab settlement. Only two or three small rooms are open, but there's a pleasant courtyard garden. Adult €3, child free.
- Convent of St Clara is east side of Banys Àrabs. The "Poor Clares" (Hermanas Pobres) were founded in 1212 and the church is from 1671. The nuns make cookies, remaining in seclusion as you pass your money through a hatch and they push out the goodies.
- Museum of Mallorca, C de la Portella 5 (block north of Banys Àrabs), ☏ +34 971 597995. Tu F-Su 09:00-14:00, W Th 09:00-19:00. Small museum of city heritage, crowded with artworks.
- 2 Basílica de Sant Francesc, Plaça de Sant Francesc 7, ☏ +34 971 712695. Church and cloister founded in 1281, in similar style to the cathedral but without the tourist hordes. The Franciscan nuns moved in with the Poor Clares in the 19th century.
- Santa Eulàlia is an attractive gothic church 100 m west of Sant Francesc, but many visitors feel it's not worth the €5.
- 3 Fundación Juan March Palma, C de Sant Miquel 11, ☏ +34 971 710428. M-F 10:00-18:30, Sa 10:00-14:00. Museum of modern art, a branch of the Madrid foundation of financier Juan March Ordinas (1880-1962). Big names on display here include Picasso, Miró and Dalí, and the building is a stately 17th century mansion. Free.
- Basílica de Sant Miquel is 100 m north of the Foundation. It was a mosque converted to a church in 1229, but re-built in the 14th century and expanded in the 17th.
- 4 Plaça del Mercat is a leafy triangle in the west of Casco Antiguo with many interesting Art Nouveau buildings. The church of San Nicolás just south was completed in 1712.
- 5 Llotja de Palma (Sa Llotja). Medieval mercantile building with impressive architectural features, near the waterfront. It is occasionally used as event space but stands empty most of the time.
- 6 Es Baluard Museu d'Art Contemporani, Plaça de la Porta de Santa Catalina10, ☏ +34 971 908200. M-Sa 10:00-20:00, Su 10:00-15:00. Three-storey collection of 19th-20th century works by artists from the Balearic islands. Adult €6, conc €4.50, under-12 free.
Further out
[edit]- Paseo Marítimo is the promenade, flanked by busy Av de Gabriel Roca. Its east end is under the town walls, with Parc de la Mar and the artificial lake. It continues past Llotja and the marina, then the coast trends south to the ferry pier and main harbour. This south end is a pub and club strip, with discos thumping music till dawn, and the floodlit cathedral in the background.
- Transilvania Cafetería-Museum is a schlock-horror waxworks. It's at C de Jaume Ferran 38, 200 m north of Jacint Verdaguer railway station, and open Tu-Sa 17:00-00:00.
- 7 Pueblo Español, C del Poble Espanyol 55, ☏ +34 971 731062. Daily 10:00-18:00. "Village" containing replicas of notable Spanish buildings. In season there are artisan shops, restaurants and bars within, and it's an events venue, but it's a bit hollow at other times. Adult €10, child €5.
- 8 Castell de Bellver, C de Camilo José Cela (Bus 4, 20, 50), ☏ +34 971 735065. Tu-Sa 10:0-18:00, Su 10:00-15:00. An unusual circular castle enclosing a courtyard, built in the 14th century over a Moorish fort. A circle is not the best design in the age of artillery, but there's an outer ravelin and it withstood two sieges. Within is a museum of archaeological finds and classical sculptures. Its hilltop site commands good views of the city and the bay. Adult €4, conc or child €2.
- 9 Pilar and Joan Miro Foundation, C de Saridakis 29, Cala Major, ☏ +34 971 701420. Tu-Su 10:00-18:00, Su 10:00-15:00. Joan Miró lived mostly in Barcelona and Paris but had extended spells in Palma. His two former studios display 6000 works, and there's a sculpture garden. Adult €10.
- 10 Museu Històric Militar de Sant Carles, Castillo de San Carlos, Cala Major, ☏ +34 971 402145. Tu-Su 10:00-14:00, Su 10:00-15:00. Military museum in a 17th century Vauban-style bastion by the harbour.
- 11 Palma Aquarium, C de Manuela de los Herreros 21, ☏ +34 971 746104. Daily 09:30-18:30. Aquarium focused on Mediterranean and coastal ecosystems, with a huge shark tank and vast collection of live corals. Reservations advised. Adult €32.50, child €22.
Do
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- Platja de Can Pere Antoni is the most central beach, starting 500 m east of Parc de la Mar beneath the cathedral. Some traffic noise, the east end is a little quieter. There are showers and lockers here.
- Ciudad Jardín is 2 km east of Platja de Can Pere Antoni. It's a white sandy strip 450 m long, seldom crowded, with a series of jetties to curb erosion.
- Ca'n Pastilla beach starts further east near the aquarium and airport, and stretches 4 km to become Playa S'Arenal.
- Cala Major is a suburb 4 km southwest of Palma de Mallorca with lots of high-rise hotels. The beach is 200 m long and 80 m wide and can get busy at the height of summer, but the water is crystal clear and suitable for kiddy-bathing.
- Aqualand El Arenal (Palma – Arenal motorway, Exit 13 at km 15), ☏ +34 696 158177. May-Oct daily 10:00-17:00. This water park has slides and pools for kids of all ages. Adult €35, conc or child €27.
- Marineland: see Magaluf for this marine zoo to the west near Costa d'en Blanes beach.
- Football: RCD Mallorca play soccer in La Liga, Spain's top tier. Their home ground is Estadi de Son Moix or Visit Mallorca Stadium (capacity 23,000), 2 km northwest of city centre.
- Plaza de Toros is the bullring, and still used for bullfights, but also stages concerts. It's at Av Gaspar de Bennazar 32, 500 m north of Jacint Verdaguer railway station.
- Golf: the closest courses are Son Muntaner and Son Vida, together in the hills 3 km northwest of city centre.
- Mallorca Live is a rock and pop music festival in mid June.
- Festival de Pollença is classical music, throughout August.
- Evolution Film Festival is first week in November. Fonart Short Film Festival is no longer held.
- Smooth Jazz Festival is likewise first week in November.
- Festa de l’Estendard is an end-of-year event in December, with a Mass at La Seu.
Buy
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- El Corte Ingles is the Spanish national department store. It has large branches on Av de Jaume III west side of old town (open daily), and at Av d'Alexandre Rosselló southast of the railway station (M-Sa).
- Town centre supermarkets are small, but Mercadona is a large store at Plaça de l'Olivar, 200 m south of the station. It's open M-Sa 09:00-21:30.
Work
[edit]As on the mainland, you need to be an EU citizen, and to have reasonably fluent Spanish. Speaking German is a plus as so many jobs in Palma are in the hospitality sector.
Eat
[edit]
- See Mallorca#Eat for typical island dishes. Useful to know: the phrase for "full English breakfast" is desayuno London.
Budget
[edit]- Budget places are mostly in the old town centre, with a scattering north to Plaça d'en Coll and south to the marina.
- 1 La Cuadra del Maño, C del Miracle 8, ☏ +34 636 040740. Tu-Th 20:00-00:00, F Sa 14:00-17:00, 20:00-00:00, Su 14:00-18:00. Popular barbecue restaurant with steak grilled over a wood fire. Great service and value for money.
- 2 Es Badulake, C de les Minyones 2, ☏ +34 871 571999. M-F 09:00-17:00. Sandwich shop, also with wraps and tacos, lots of vegan alternatives. Takeaway only, eat in the shade on the adjacent Passeig del Born.
- 3 Ca n'Ela Vegan Restaurant, C de la Mar 16, ☏ +34 871 776653. M-Sa 13:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00. All-vegan restaurant, some dishes are gluten-free. Menus change daily.
- 4 A Estribor, C de Berenguer de Tornamira 5, ☏ +34 971 726216. M-Sa 08:00-17:00. Small Chinese cafe bar, fast friendly service.
- 5 Casa Julio, C de la Previsió 4, ☏ +34 971 710670. Daily 13:00-23:00. Trad homemade food in a popular cafe, you may have to queue.
- Es Raconet, C dels Moliners 3 (opposite Fundación Juan March), ☏ +34 971 724012. M-Sa 13:00-16:00. Great home-cooked food for a bargain price.
- 6 Calixto, C del Banc de l'Oli 14, ☏ +34 652 556880. M-Sa 12:00-23:00. Paella is all they serve, and it's good.
- Cappuccino Palau March, C del Conquistador 13 (north side of Royal Palace), ☏ +34 971 717272. M-Th 09:00-22:00, F-Su 09:00-23:00. Good all-day place for breakfast and light bites.
- 7 Oh Mallork Bar de Tapas, Francisco Roselló Pintor 4, ☏ +34 633 648099. M-F 13:00-16:00, 18:00-22:30. Cozy friendly tapas restaurant.
Mid-range
[edit]- Pesquero, Moll de la Llonja (Marina opposite Llotja), ☏ +34 971 715 220. Daily 11:00-23:00. Portside restaurant for seafood, paella, tapas and the like. Mixed reviews on whether it's worth what you pay.
- 8 A Ma Maison, C Soler 18A, ☏ +34 971 919697. Tu-Sa 13:00-15:00, 19:30 - 22:00. French Tunisian homemade dishes, a one-man show. Vegan, GF and other diets no problem.
- 9 Boira Restaurante, Plaça Francesc García i Orell 8, ☏ +34 971 274594. Daily 07:30-22:30. Great value for their day-long Med cuisine.
- La Mirona, C de Sant Jaume 21 (by Sant Jaume Design Hotel), ☏ +34 871 231995. Tu-Sa 19:00-22:30. Small place that you need to book, serving whatever the chef finds best today, no written menu.
Splurge
[edit]- 10 Marc Fosh Restaurant, C de la Missió 7, ☏ +34 971 720114. Tu-Sa 13:30-14:30, 19:30-21:30. Chic place with fine dining.
Drink
[edit]- City centre has Arlequin, Es Petit Bar, Bar Savoy, Gibson Bar, Bar Nicholas, Can Frasquet and Manto Negro.
- Marina has Lennox Pub, Abaco (below), Bar Dia, Bodega Ca'n Rigo and Corner Bar.
- Abaco, C Sant Joan 1 (block north of Llotja), ☏ +34 971 714939. Su-Th 20:00-00:30, F Sa 20:00-01:30. Pricy and posy cocktail bar in a former coaching house, no food and reckon €20+ per cocktail. But you come for the over-the-top decor and atmosphere: Fridays at 23:30, the classical background music rises to a crescendo and fresh rose petals fall from a hidden balcony above the imposing fireplace.
Sleep
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High season is July to September, when Mallorca is mobbed by visitors from Germany, the UK and Ireland. Many hotels close in winter.
Budget
[edit]- 1 We Hostel Palma, C Germans Schembri 1, ☏ +34 871 209244. Clean hostel by the marina. Dorm €33.
Mid-range
[edit]- Valparaiso Palace is hit-and-miss. It's by the ferry port at C de Francesc Vidal i Sureda 23.
- 2 Hotel Isla Mallorca, C de Pilar Juncosa 7, ☏ +34 971 281 200, info@islamallorca.com. Smart hotel and spa in the commercial centre. B&B double €250.
- Hotel Artmadams, C del Marquès de la Sènia 34 (midway along harbour), ☏ +34 971 222 121. Arty hotel, though the surrounds are sleazy. B&B double €200.
- 3 Hotel Palladium, Passeig de Mallorca 40, ☏ +34 971 712 841. Comfy city-centre hotel. B&B double €150.
- 4 Sant Jaume Design Hotel, C de Sant Jaume 22, ☏ +34 871 575 525. Chic hotel at the edge of old town. B&B double €400.
- BG Java at C de la Goleta 7 is comfy enough but sits at the end of the runway, needs better soundproofing.
- Hotel Ilusion Calma is near the airport and Can Pastilla Marina at C d'Horaci 5. Mostly good reviews.
- 5 Linda Hotel, C Octavi August 2, Can Pastilla, ☏ +34 911 229 744. Popular inexpensive 189-room hotel, near airport and beach.
- Hotel Amic Gala, C de Xabec 5, Can Pastilla (200 m east of Linda), ☏ +34 971 260 812. Good value, family-friendly. B&B double €120.
- Hotel Amic Miraflores, C de Xabec 4 (opposite Amic Gala), ☏ +34 971 263 100. Family-oriented hotel near Pastilla marina. B&B double €180.
- 6 Hotel THB El Cid, C del Vaixell 2, ☏ +34 971 260 850. Good beachfront hotel, geared up for cyclists. B&B double €180.
- Alua Leo is a Hyatt hotel a short block east of El Cid.
- HM Tropical at C de Marbella 16 and HM Gran Fiesta at #28 get mixed reviews.
- HM Ayron Park further south at Trasimeno 7 gets better reviews but rooms are cramped. Adults only.
- HM Dunas Blancas adjacent is similar.
- BG Hotel Pamplona, C de Neopàtria (block north of Iberostar Selection), ☏ +34 971 264 900. Value-for-money midrange hotel. B&B double €100.
- BG Caballero next door has similar price and quality.
- HM Balanguera Beach is an arty place next to BG Hotel Pamplona, at C de Marbella 35.
- 7 Iberostar Selection Playa de Palma, C de Marbella 36, ☏ +34 971 266 450. Bright welcoming beachfront hotel. B&B double €300.
- Iberostar Bahía de Palma is next to Iberostar Selection, similar price and quality.
- Iberostar Christina is inland next to Iberostar Selection, slightly cheaper but similar quality.
- Tent Capi Playa is an inexpensive hotel south side of the Iberostar complex.
- THB Maria Isabel is a clean well-run place east side of the Iberostar complex.
- Copaiba by Honne is another block east at C de Villagarcia de Arosa 24. Comfy enough, the main gripe is that the restaurant doesn't accept cards or room-credit, you have to pay everything in cash.
- 8 Hotel Leman, Av Son Rigo 6, ☏ +34 971 260 712, info@hotel-leman.com. Mostly good reviews for this independent hotel near the beach. B&B double €250.
- 9 Pure Salt Garonda, C de la Mar Negra 2, ☏ +34 971 014 040. Pleasant beachfront hotel and spa with rooftop pool. Adults only. B&B double €200.
- Aubamar Suites, C Misión de San Diego 17 (100 m north of Hipotels Gran Playa), ☏ +34 971 724 347. Slick comfy hotel set back from the beach. B&B double €250.
- 10 Hipotels Gran Playa de Palma, Prolongación C de las Canyes, ☏ +34 971 268 045. Good all-round hotel. B&B double €180.
- Universal Hotel Neptuno is at C del Llaüt 34, on the beachfront by Gran Playa. Mostly good reviews but some gripes, and noise from the nearby Megapark. Adults only.
- Hotel Paradiso Garden, C de la Perla (block south of Gran Playa), ☏ +34 971 260 616. High standard of comfort and service. B&B double €160.
- 11 Castillo Hotel Son Vida, C Raixa 2, Ponent, ☏ +34 971 493 493. Swish spa hotel towering above a golf course in the hills north of town. B&B double €450.
- Whala!fun is a simple clean place at C Terral 23 in S'Arenal, part of HM chain.
- Tent Bahia de Palma is adequate for what you pay. It's at C Trencadors 74 in S'Arenal.
- Bahamas I & II are further inland along Av Europa in S'Arenal.
Splurge
[edit]
- Palacio Ca Sa Galesa, C de Miramar 8 (east side of cathedral), ☏ +34 971 715400. Small 16th century palace converted into a hotel, and very plush. Some found it fusty, but most rate it highly for atmosphere and service. B&B double €350.
- 12 Portixol Hotel, C Sirena 27, ☏ +34 971 271 800, hotel@portixol.com. A small 4-star hotel at Portixol harbour with an excellent restaurant. B&B double €600.
- 13 Gran Melia Victoria, Ave Joan Miró 21, ☏ +34 971 732 542. Comfy hotel by the marina. B&B double €180.
- Hotel Bon Sol, Paseo de Illetas, 30, ☏ +34 971 402 111, fax: +34 971 402 559, ILABonSol@ila-chateau.com. A luxurious yet friendly and charming 4-star beach hotel on the outskirts of Palma, with two swimming pools, conference facilities and golf. €170-205.
Connect
[edit]As of June 2024, Palma has 4G from MasMovil/Yoigo, and 5G from Movistar, Orange and Vodafone.
Stay safe
[edit]Take great care of valuables, as the town centre has pickpockets a-plenty. Flower girls, street touts and other "distractors" may be working in cahoots with them.
Old Town and El Terreno can be sleazy at night. There are lots of drug misusers, and drink-spiking is not uncommon.
The people of Mallorca regard themselves as Catalan, not Spanish. Respect this, though your roto attempts to speak mainland (Castilian) Spanish will earn more kudos than insisting on English.
Go next
[edit]- All the rest of Mallorca is within an hour or so of Palma. Sóller is a charming small town, reached on the rinky-dinky wooden train.
- Ferries sail to the other Balearic islands, and Ibiza city is within a day trip.
- Ferries also sail to the Spanish mainland.